Chennai :

Once, these saris used to be woven by master craftsmen in Mysore. In the 17th century, Maharao Kishore Singh, a Mughal general campaigning for emperor Aurangzeb, took back with him some of these master weavers to reproduce these handcrafted, light and colourful saris in his town of Kota in Rajasthan. Over time, these saris came to be known as Kota Doria saris and the town itself became famous for this craftsmanship.

Centuries later, the Chennai youngster, so used to the heavier silk saris of the south, is taking a liking to these light saris. Catering to this demand, Noor Mohammed, 32, whose family has more than a hundred years of history in weaving Doria sarees, is bringing his wares to the city for the fourth time.

Noor Mohammed, who hails from Kaithoon village in Kota, says, where the weavers from Mysore came to between 1684 and 1695.

“This is the sole occupation of our village and we have more than 3,000 loom pits.”

Kaithoon is the biggest producer of Kota Doria in Kota. Mohammed primarily exhibits in Hyderabad, Delhi and Mumbai.

“A few years ago, our villagers were mazdooris (labourers) for businessmen who sold our sarees. Then, every family had an income of only Rs 4,500 a month. So we approached chief minister Vasundhara Raje and the government suggested that we weave and sell our own sarees. That’s when we formed our own weaving society, which has more than a hundred women. Now, the entire family weaves together.”

Mohammed says the family incomes have doubled now.

Kota Doria (Doria means thread) is made of cotton and silk threads in different combinations in warp and weft (vertical and horizontal weaving). The weaving produces square check patterns on the fabric known as ‘khat’. The skilfully made khat becomes transparent which is a unique characteristic of this fabric. An authentic Kota Doria is soft to touch with very little starch. Since the fabric is woven by hand on traditional pit looms, the edges on the side are slightly uneven.

“Contrary to the taste of south Indians, there is a separate crowd- mostly youngsters who go in for Kota because of its lightness,” says city based textile businessman C Balamurugan. “It weighs not more than a dupatta and it is particularly comfortable during summer.”

The exhibition will begin on December 20th at The Palace, T-23A, 7th Avenue, GOCHS Colony, Besant Nagar.

For details call 9840012523.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Chennai / TNN / December 16th, 2014