Pages from History
by Prof. A.V. Narasimha Murthy
Mysore is famous for Palaces. In fact it is famous all over the world as a city of palaces because it was ruled by the Maharajas for the past five hundred years, until it was merged with the Indian Republic. The institution of the Maharajas has practically become extinct and those that survived could not maintain themselves in royal splendour for lack of resources. Even during the days of the British rule in India, the Maharajas of Mysore were recognised as such and British gave them special respect. Even Mahatma Gandhiji had openly praised the Maharaja Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV and called him ‘Rajarshi’ (saintly King). All these were responsible for the construction of palaces in Mysore. In fact, the tourists flock our city and their main agenda is to visit Mysore Palace. Two years ago there was a news item according to which the number of visitors to Mysore Palace outnumbered the visitors to the Taj Mahal. In this connection we should congratulate the Mysore Palace Board authorities in general and
its Deputy Director T.S. Subrahmanya who have been keeping the palace in an immaculate manner and providing good amenities to the tourists. These comments apply to smaller palaces like Jaganmohan Palace and Lalitha Mahal Palace.
Jaganmohan Palace as its name itself signifies is an elegant and majestic building in Mysore. It was originally built during the rule of Krishnaraja Wadiyar III, sometime in 1860. When there was an accidental fire at Mysore Palace, this was used as a Palace by the Maharaja, and all important functions took place here. It also served as a Durbar hall till the completion of the Palace in 1910. Installation of His Highness the Maharaja took place here and it was graced by Lord Curzon, the Governor General and Viceroy of India.
Later in 1900, a spacious and ornamental Pavilion was added to the then existing Jaganmohan Palace. It was specially designed for the invitees to witness the marriages and birthdays. Basically, it has a long hall and an elevated platform. The long hall has two balconies on both sides so that the royal ladies could watch the functions. Thus, most important family functions of the Maharaja took place here. Mysore Representative Assembly also met here. Mysore University Convocations also took place here for some years. I remember my uncle going to the Jaganmohan Palace for taking his degree at the convocation, almost 70 years ago. Maharaja who was the Chancellor of the University used to go to the Jaganmohan Palace in a ceremonial procession and people used to watch the procession, standing on both sides of the road.
In course of time, when the Mysore Palace became the place of residence of royalty, Jaganmohan Palace lost its royal touch. It was converted into an art gallery. The three-storeyed structure behind the main hall is a fine repository of paintings, sculptures, musical instruments and other artefacts connected with the Mysore Royal family. The real attraction is the painting section. These excellent and rare paintings include those of Raja Ravivarma, Ramavarma and also some European artists. The painting of great artist Roerich is also available here. Particularly, interesting paintings are those giving the genealogy of the Mysore Maharajas. Thus, Jaganmohan Palace is a must for all visitors to Mysore.
The greatest attraction of the Jaganmohan Palace is its frontal façade, which is majestic befitting a royal structure. Its stucco ornamentation is excellent specimen of stucco art of the period, which has practically become extinct. The broad doors in keeping with the tall façade adds majesty to the frontal portion. The stucco domes and the minarets at the four corners are highly pleasing. The central part has a vimana-like tower with minarets culminating in a broad Kalasha. The chaitya-like niches at the minarets are very elegant. In keeping with the beauty of a huge building, a vast enclosure with a garden and shady trees add gorgeousness to the Palace. In recent years this has become a great tourist attraction. Now-a-days, most of the important functions, music, drama and even religious discourses take place here. I vividly remember that Mysore Kendra of the Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan had arranged discourses on Ramayana and Mahabharata by Mathoor Krishnamurthy at this Palace for months together. T
hus, the excellent ambience of this palace makes it suitable for conducting important cultural events here. The Maharajas are gone but their creations remain forever.
Lalitha Mahal Palace is one of the most beautiful and magnificent heritage buildings not only in Mysore but in entire Karnataka. Mysore being a princely State under the British, many distinguished foreign dignitaries used to visit Mysore and stay in Mysore Palace itself. Though it was a palace, it was not suitable for the stay of foreign visitors because of the entirely ancient Indian atmosphere and conveniences such as toilet, bathrooms, etc. This defect was realised by the Maharaja Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV and he thought of building a Palace exclusively for foreign guests where they would be more comfortable and at home. Naturally, he thought of an European classical building model rather than a Hindu Palace of traditional type.
Immediately, the Maharaja commissioned a famous foreign architect by name E.W. Fritchley. He selected a spacious site near the foot of the Chamundi hill and the building was completed in 1931, under the close supervision of Maharaja himself, at a cost of Rs. 13 lakh.
This building is a majestic two-storeyed magnificent structure built in European style with elements of Roman, Greek, Gothic, Renaissance, Italian, Hindu and Sarcenic styles. Both floors have twin ionic columns, eight on either side of the main entrance which give the advantage of height. The upper portion is specially noteworthy. It has two-tier, four domes on all the four corners and one at the middle. However, the most beautiful is the central one which has three tiers and is above the entrance of the building. Actually, it is at a great height and dominates the entire area including the elevation. The smaller minaret-like domes at the peripheries add special elegance to the top of the building. The portico in the centre of the building which is surrounded by pillars gives a unique experience to a visitor when he is received there.
Though planned by a foreigner, the craftsmen were all local people who were experts in stone, stucco, marble and wood work. This is evident from the richly laid decorative motifs on walls and ceilings. The imported tiles and fixtures specially brought from England add a foreign touch. As a tourist exclaimed, the fixtures themselves could cost a fortune.
As soon as one enters into the interior of the building, Italian marble balustraded staircase welcomes the visitor. It branches off to right and left to reach the first floor. Thus, from top to bottom and from one end to another, it is an epitome of royalty. Even foreign guests are amazed at this dream-like beauty. Before closing this, I should share with my readers, the joy I had when I had the good fortune of staying here. It was some years ago when a seminar took place in Mysore and I was one of the speakers on epigraphy in that seminar. All the participants were accommodated at Lalitha Mahal and I was also given a suite. I stayed in the hotel for three days. More than the items of food, one would be enchanted by the silver plates, cups and saucers, spoons and the royal furniture and above all the royal ambience. That is the charm of Lalitha Mahal. Whenever, I delivered a lecture to foreign tourists, I used to mention that it was the creation of Maharaja Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV and the tourists would admire him for his forethought.
source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> Feature Articles / August 10th, 2014