Category Archives: Arts, Culture & Entertainment

What was it to be a ‘Madrassi’ in Delhi half a century ago

New Delhi :

 I was provoked to write my memories of what was it to be a ‘Madrassi’ which was synonymous of being a South Indian in the late fifties, after being alerted to a Facebook post of a South Indian journalist who recalled his interaction with U. R. Ananthamurthy, who passed away three days ago.
The south Indian journalist narrates that in 2004-5, U. R. Ananthamurthy advised him, “Stay bold, original and South Indian in a Delhi that we may not like. Truth will not get a standing ovation, it will get you harassments, pain and dejection, but one has to stay, put up, unmindful of the push backs.”
The journalist recalls that Ananthamurthy told him to stand up to the patronizing attitude shown towards him by others and uphold the principles of his profession. I admired and respected the late U.R. Ananthamurthy, the Jnanapith and Padma Award winner, who headed the Sahitya Academy, and who was a fellow Kannadiga. He used to invite me to functions at the academy located near Mandi House and had warm interactions with me. I was present when he was awarded the Jnanapith Award by late Prime Minister P. V. Narasimha Rao.
On reading his suggestion to journalist Vinod K Jose, my thoughts also went back to the late fifties when I had first come to Delhi as an escort to my female cousin who was taking part in a classical music competition organized by the All India Radio. My law exam results were due and I was searching for a Bombay newspaper that was to publish the results. My uncle, U. S. Mohan Rao, who was then heading the Publications Division of the Government of India, and with whom I was staying in Delhi, said he would take me to the Press Information Bureau, which used to get the days newspapers from around the country by the evening.
I was escorted to the room of the then Principal Information Officer, T.R.V. Chari. He called for the Times of India of Bombay and asked for my roll number. He saw the results published in the newspaper, and said he did not see the number. As I was dejectedly getting up to leave, he asked for my name. When I gave it, his eyes brightened and said my dear fellow; you have stood first in the state and showed me the paper. They had published my name right at the top with my roll number.
Next, he asked me please go to the adjacent room. “We are recruiting some boys and please appear for the exam and let me see how you fare.” I took the exam and this ‘Madrassi’ boy came to live in Delhi, though his heart was still in Bombay. A law degree and a father’s law practice that I could inherit were not to be my calling.
The time I had arrived in Delhi, South Kanara, the district I belonged to, was a part of the Madras Presidency. The States Reorganization Commission had just submitted its report.
I stayed with my uncle near the Old Secretariat and one of my cousins was staying in South Avenue. I used to visit my cousin in South Avenue and for returning home, I used to take DTC Bus No.9 to go to the Old Secretariat and further to the Delhi University campus. One day, as I was waiting at the bus stop in South Avenue, an old man asked me, “Where are you from, young man? I said, “from the Madras Presidency.” He got annoyed, and told me, “You do not have to crack jokes at me, and I expect you to give me a straight forward answer.” I was puzzled and respectfully replied, “Dear sir, I belong to Mangalore in South Kanara of the Madras Presidency, and I gave you a straight forward answer. I do not know you, and have no intention of misleading you.”
His eyes brightened, and he told me, “I now believe you.” And to my surprise, he started dancing and singing at the bus stop-“I married a girl from Mangalore.” He then told me that his name was Harindranath Chattopadhyaya, and he had married Kamaladevi , a Saraswat Brahmin from Mangalore. Youngsters of today would remember him as the adorable grandfather in the film Bawarchi. Kamaladevi Chattopadhyay of course, was the legendary social reformer and freedom fighter.
He patted me on the back and said, I was always welcome to see him at his house and gave me his address. It was a pleasant change for me to see that somebody could tell the difference between a Canarese (Kannada) accent and a Tamil accent.
I moved home once again to stay with my cousin, who moved from South Avenue to Moti Bagh. After a couple of years, the cousin was transferred out of Delhi, and I had to look for a house. I told my colleagues that I was looking for a house to rent. Their reaction was, ” yaar tu toh Madrassi hai, tereko koi bhi ghar de dega.” (You are a Madrassi, anybody will give you a home). A ‘Madrassi’ was considered an ideal tenant those days, generally vegetarian, god fearing, teetotaler and non-smoker. I barely fitted into that stereotype, but had learned not to correct people when it worked to my advantage to be a ‘Madrassi’.
For couple of days , I trudged the streets of Karol Bagh, which was the popular destination of all South Indians wanting to rent cheap accommodation. I visited realtors and accompanied them to several apartments. House owners would willingly meet with me, but when they got to know that I was a bachelor and that my parents would not be living with me, they were skeptical. And then, when I was asked if I drink alcohol, I would truthfully answer yes. Door shut.
My house hunting went on, as this ‘Madrassi’ still hadn’t learned to fib even a bit. One Sunday, I landed up at Pusa Road and was told that there was an outhouse of a large house available for rent. A tough looking lady opened the door. I was almost resigned to a No yet again, so before the questioning began, I laid it out there in the open. I rattled. “I am single, a bachelor who had no intention of marrying soon, my parents don’t live with me, I occasionally drink and I smoke. I am a Madrassi.” I was quite resigned to the fact that the landlady would not even offer me tea, let alone rent out her outhouse.
There was a twinkle in her eye. She said to me, “beta, you are welcome to stay in my outhouse….I want you to be careful, the adjacent outhouse is rented by Punjabi girls. You are a handsome Madrassi, and one of them may like to hitch onto you. Good luck.”
The Madrassi from Mumbai stayed at the Pusa Road house for over a year and the Punjabi girls used to wave at me when they saw me. It stopped there.
Mr. I. Ramamohan Rao is a former Principal Information Officer, Government of India. He can be contacted at raoramamohan@hotmail.com By I. Ramamohan Rao (ANI)
source: http;//www.aninews.in / ANI News / Home> National / by I. Ramamohan Rao / New Delhi – August 25th, 2014

Farmhouse a testimony to his love for nature, arts

Malnad magic in Mysore

A country-tiled house on an elevated spot located in the midst of abundant greenery, replete with coconut trees and plants of different types, with grass spread over every bit of the farm, make ‘Anu Vana,’ the farmhouse of Anantha­murthy, between Dyavalapura and Alanahalli in the city.

Ananthamurthy shifted base to Mysore from Melige village, Thirthahalli taluk in Shimoga district, which is part of the Malnad belt. A visit to ‘Anu Vana’ shows that he had recreated Malnad in Mysore. He did so with perfection on his sprawling 10-acre farm, 24 km from the city.

When he was alive, he took time to be here, away from modern trappings. A board on the gate reads ‘Anu Vana, Ananthamurthy,’ named after his daughter Anuradha. On Saturday, a portrait of Ananthamurthy in the verandah, with flower adorning the same, greeted visitors.

FarmhouseBF24aug2014

Sulochana Somashekarappa, a family friend who resides in the neighbourhood, told Deccan Herald, “Ananthamurthy was very keen on building the house akin to those in Malnad, allowing air and light in abundance. One look at the house from outside says it all”.

Sulochana knew Ananthamurthy through her husband B Somashekarappa, who retired as a senior assistant director in Fisheries department. When Ananthamurthy was residing on New Kantharaj Urs Road, the Somashekarappa couple lived nearby and they bonded well. They continued to live close by as Somashekarappa shifted back to Alanahalli, his native place. They (Sulochana and Somashekarappa) played a perfect host to Ananthamurthy.

Quoting Esther, Ananthamurthy’s wife, Sulochana said, “Ananthamurthy had expressed his wish to stay in Mysore for some time a few months ago, but his health deteriorated further.” Recently, Esther and their son Sharath visited the farm.Sulochana said, “When we (family members) went to enquire the health of Ananthamurthy at his Dollars Colony residence in Bangalore several months ago, he had expressed his wish to stay for some time at his Mysore farmhouse. But God willed otherwise,” said Sulochana.

Prema, wife of Somashekar, the caretaker of the farm, said, “Whenever they planned to visit the farm, Ammavru (referring to Esther) would inform us over phone one day in advance. Recently, Ammavru had indicated to us about the wish of Appavru (Ananthamurthy) to visit the farm. What came was the news of his death.Ananthamurthy had created a mini-library of sorts at his farmhouse.

A rack in the corner of the house has books in Kannada, English, Tulu Malayalam, Tamil and other languages. The books include the biography of late prime minister V P Singh, ‘Poorvapara’ a collection of critical works of Ananthamurthy in Kannada and several of his plays.

The interiors of the house are decorated with paintings and sculptures, a testimony to his love for art.  Also, there is the glorious moment in Ananthamurthy’s life sealed in frame. A photograph of the writer receiving the Jnanpith award from then prime minister P V Narasimha Rao.

source:  http://www.deccanherald.com / Deccan Herald / Home> State / by Sreekantswamy B / Mysore, DHNS – August 23rd, 2014

World Photography Day today

 Senior photographer M.R. Manjunath, who was felicitated by MDJA this morning, is seen with (from left) MDJA President K. Deepak, senior press photographers from Bangalore K. Gopinathan and Abdul Hafeez, General Secretary K.J. Lokesh Babu and Treasurer S.R. Madhusudhan.
Senior photographer M.R. Manjunath, who was felicitated by MDJA this morning, is seen with (from left) MDJA President K. Deepak, senior press photographers from Bangalore K. Gopinathan and Abdul Hafeez, General Secretary K.J. Lokesh Babu and Treasurer S.R. Madhusudhan.

Mysore :

As part of World Photography Day today, Mysore District Photographers and Videographers Association had organised a unique programme of clicking photographs of traffic violators in city this morning.

Nearly 35 photographers, went about clicking photographs of those violating traffic rules and sent the same to the office of City Police Commissioner Dr. M.A. Saleem.

At 6 pm, City Police Commissioner Dr. M.A. Saleem will inaugurate a function at Ideal Jawa Rotary School auditorium ,where former Presidents of the Association L. Mahesh and H. Rajagopal would be felicitated. MLA M.K. Somashekar, Leader of the Opposition in MCC Nagabhushan, senior Congress leader Shivegowda and Corporator P. Prashanth will be the chief guests. Association President K.U. Verghese, Vice-President Mukund Singh, Secretary N. Umesh and others were present.

At MDJA

The Mysore District Journalists Association (MDJA) had also organised a function to felicitate senior photographer M.R. Manjunath of Prajavani, Hubli, at its premises on Thyagaraja Road in city this morning.

Senior press photographers from Bangalore Abdul Hafeez and K. Gopinathan were the chief guests. MDJA President K. Deepak spoke. An exhibition of photographs clicked by city press photographers were displayed on the occasion.

MDJA Vice-President Ravikumar, Gen. Secretary K.J. Lokesh Babu and others were present.

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> General News / August 19th, 2014

Anglo-Indian Heirloom Cuisine Festival at Taj-Connemara

AngloIndiaFoodCF23aug2014

Chennai :

It’s an heirloom Anglo-Indian cuisine food festival at the Vivanta by Taj-Connemara, a top chef said, proudly showing a 108-year-old notebook containing recipes of a bygone era.

“The deciphering of the handwritten recipes in the notebook was the only challenge we faced while bringing back to life the dishes mentioned in it,” Arzooman Irani, executive chef at Vivanta by Taj-Whitefield Bangalore, told IANS here.

He was here to host the “Chronicles of Whitefield” Anglo-Indian food festival at Vivanta by Taj-Connemara Chennai located on the Binny Road here at The Verandah restaurant Aug 22-31.

The Made in Austria note book contains the recipes of around 120 dishes.

“It was the family recipe book handwritten by Harry Blake, one of the original settlers of Whitefield near Bangalore. The notebook was handed over to us by his granddaughter,” Irani said as he served a ginger wine.

The non-alcoholic drink surprised one with its sweetness – and the ginger flavour that followed.

What is unique about the dishes is that they are not very spicy nor are they bland. The dishes are very tasty, flavourful, mild and light on the stomach.

The only spicy item is the fried masala prawn which Blake himself has termed spicy prawn.

“The dishes are made with locally available ingredients. While Blake made his fish curry with the fish caught in the local lake/pond, the prawns came from Madras (Chennai),” Irani said.

He said the whereabouts of Blake’s granddaughter are not known as she has shifted after her husband’s demise.

“She gave us the notebook two years back. We started our work after that and launched the menu at our hotel in Whitefield recently,” Irani remarked, adding that 35 of the 120 recepies were being served.

The ginger wine was followed by mulligatawny soup – a broth made with lentils and pepper. Blake gave a fruity twist to the soup by adding finely cut apples.

For the main course, Irani offered rice varieties – coconut, tomato, cabbage – along with vegetable stew, muttonball curry, country captain chicken curry and Blake’s signature dish – Harry’s fish curry.

The vegetable stew made with coconut was different from the Kerala variety, which is spicier than Blake’s stew.

Similarly the muttonball curry and the country captain chicken curry were very flavourful and not spicy and could be safely consumed by children as well as adults.

The tasty fish curry gave out the good flavours of mustard.

“True the dishes are not very spicy. But this is how the Anglo-Indians settled in Whitefield cooked their food and ate. We also checked with other Anglo-Indian families there who said their dishes are not spicy,” Irani said.

“For the present generation, we offer an experience. It is an experience of going back into the history and tasting the dishes made during those times,” Irani said.

A meal for two, without alcohol, would cost around Rs. 3,500 including taxes, said Irani.

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> LifeStyle> Food / by IANS / August 21st, 2014

R K Narayan Heir Turns Down Offer for House

Mysore :

Mysore City Corporation’s offer to pay compensation of `1.99 crore to take possession of renowned writer R K Narayan’s house in Yadavagiri has been rejected by one of the three legal heirs of the building.

This comes as yet another setback for the MCC after it received no response to the global tender of `35 lakh floated to renovate the building. After being pulled up by the Urban Development Department for delaying work on the building, MCC took the matter seriously and began consulting Narayan’s legal heirs.

According to sources, Bhuvaneshwari, Narayan’s granddaughter, has demanded that MCC pay compensation according to the market value. The civic body plans to convert the building into a memorial as a tribute to the writer.

On Thursday, Bhuvaneshwari visited MCC, which had invited her to finalise the compensation before the building could be taken into their possession. During her meeting with MCC commissioner P G Ramesh, assistant commissioner Veena and Zone 6 development officer Jagadish, the authorities said they would pay `1.99 crore according to the guidance value fixed by the government. However, Bhuvaneshwari did not agree. According to MCC sources, she demanded they pay compensation of `3 crore.

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> States> Karnataka / by Yathiraju / August 23rd, 2014

Udupi Rajagopalacharya Ananthmurthy a towering literary figure

Ananthamurthy was also the Vice-Chancellor of Mahatma Gandhi University in Kerala during late 1980s. (Express Archive)
Ananthamurthy was also the Vice-Chancellor of Mahatma Gandhi University in Kerala during late 1980s. (Express Archive)

SUMMARY

Ananthamurthy had said if Modi comes to power it may result in a shift in our civilisation.
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A towering figure in the world of letters, Udupi Rajagopalacharya Ananthamurthy, who died on Friday, was modern in his sensibilities and intellectual underpinnings in his literary works questioned many deeply-held beliefs.

Like his literary works, Ananthamurthy’s strong political views were also striking, often landing him in unseemly situations and controversies. A multi-faceted personality and rated as one of the best writers in the country, 82-year old Ananthamurthy has won acclaim from critics and fans alike.

In his literary life, the Kannada writer has won the Padma Bhushan in 1998, Jnanpith award in 1994, the state Rajyothsava award in 1984, while his nomination for the 2013 Man Booker International Prize brought him to the attention of a Western audience. He was also the Vice-Chancellor of Mahatma Gandhi University in Kerala during late 1980s.

A socialist in political belief, he also tried to dabble in politics contesting the Lok Sabha and Rajya elections once each unsuccessfully and courted controversies quite often with his views that generally were against BJP and Sangh Parivar.

At the height of the recent Lok Sabha poll campaign, Ananthamurthy had said he would leave the country if Narendra Modi becomes Prime Minister but later did a U-turn, saying the remark was made when he was overcome by emotion.

“That was too much to say because I can’t go anywhere except India,” he had said but his remarks had raised the hackles of BJP and many others who questioned his “intolerant” attitude and disrespect towards a possible popular mandate in favour of Modi.

Ananthamurthy had said if Modi comes to power it may result in a “shift in our civilisation.” “I have a feeling that we may slowly lose our democratic rights or civil rights when there is a bully. But much more than that when there is a bully we become cowards.”

source: http://www.indianexpress.com / The Indian Express / Home> India> India-Others / Press Trust of India, Bangalore / August 22nd, 2014

Nostalgic Blogger Documents the Bangalore of Four Decades Ago

A Turquoise Cloud is the name of Aliyeh Rizvi's
A Turquoise Cloud is the name of Aliyeh Rizvi’s

Bangalore :

Aliyeh Rizvi used to run a niche design store called Native Place many years ago. It encapsulated her love for handcrafted traditions, nostalgia and fading remnants of culture. She took to passionate blogging subsequently to revisit everything that Bangalore stands for. Native Place no longer exists as a physical space but it is now a “collaborative mind space that works to build awareness of Bangalore’s local history and culture through curated experiences, travel writing and city based collaterals. It explores ways in which information can be used to create meaning and build a deeper connect.”

In a chat with City Express, she talks about the many projects she has undertaken to keep the memory of a genteel city alive that is now being overtaken by change at every level.

Poignant memories

The best memories I have are of Bangalore’s trees and gardens, and a life lived among them. Avenues were awash with different colours all through the year, jacaranda petals fell on our shoulders as we passed. Large family picnics were organised in Cubbon Park and Lalbagh when the weather was good. I miss the beautiful bungalows that had lovely large gardens: fruits, flowers and scented plants. I miss the Queen of the Night that bloomed after sunset, scenting an entire lane with its fragrance. We made passion fruit juice and gooseberry jam from our own fruit trees and compound walls had moss! Which means it was traditionally a cold, damp climate where early morning baths were always accompanied by shivering!

A Turquoise Cloud

I blog and write offline about the Bangalore I grew up in, to save it from vanishing. The city is my home and I am rooted in it. My blog, A Turquoise Cloud, is an archive of information and stories about local culture, city people and our symbolic spaces. The city I grew up with was being knocked down rapidly and it was becoming increasingly difficult to connect with it physically. Houses I had played in were now hi-rise buildings. The local grocery store I stopped at for sweets after school had disappeared. Trees were cut down, roads had changed. Streetscapes in the city were altered forever. I felt a terrible sense of displacement in my own hometown. I could not recognise or identify with it anymore.

That’s why we old Bangaloreans spend so much time in sentimental nostalgia and B&W photographs. It’s our only way of coping with loss.

So where does one go to find this other Bangalore? I chose to recreate it online, where it can stay virtually untouched. ATC is a space where I create a context for the  present through memories, images and stories of the city. I choose to focus on the present, by giving it a meaning through the past.

historical connect

One of my most memorable projects was as Curator, Centre for Public History, Srishti School of Art Design and Technology where I  co-facilitated a successful Public History Project titled ‘The Tiger Comes to Town’ to commemorate the 150th anniversary of the Archaeological Survey of India. The focus was the Bangalore Fort in Bangalore’s busy Kalasipalayam area and its role in local history during the 18th Sultanate, the time of Tipu Sultan, and the Third Anglo-Mysore War of 1791.

It aimed to reconnect the public with their local heritage sites through deeper engagement, build awareness and instil pride in the same. It combined elements from oral history, design, academic enquiry and performance so students could look at multiple ways to engage with the site during the course of the project. The outcome was a true city project in more ways than one.

breakfast specials

One of my most popular posts was the Bangalore Breakfast Special, since the  and the eating out-breakfast tradition is so unique to our city. I wrote that Bangaloreans love their breakfast and discuss it intensely.

Replies flooded in with suggestions to try other favourite joints, NRIs posted with intense nostalgia for iconic restaurants mentioned, more discussions about food happened, vows to visit, and even arguments over the best idlis-and dosas! Like I said, we are obsessed with our tiffin! It is always wonderful when people write in with comments and stories of their own, volunteer to share information and photographs.

We also have a page on Facebook for daily interactions and information. The blog allows you to access information by usage (eat, breathe, know) and geography (north, south, east). All posts are research intensive and constructed to provide comprehensive information, painstakingly collected, in one place.

It often takes days to track down information, locate people or join the dots, but it has to be done. In this space, I can now see the Bangalore I know and love.

Back to Native Place

Native Place is the seed of an idea which will hopefully grow into a larger organisation where people interested in the city can work together on creating new formats for city history and culture based projects- through documentation, interactions, performance and information based collateral.

Perhaps knowing a little more will build a relationship, create protectiveness and then generate the ownership we require so badly right now. Our website will be up soon and city based activities will hopefully start with the onset of the festive season.

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express  / Home> Cities> Bangalore / by Express News Service / August 19th, 2014

He dreamt of Bellur as a global yoga village

Bellur (Kolar district):

Bellur Krishnamachar Sundaraja Iyengar may never have become a famed global yoga guru, had he been attentive in his English class. Iyengar, who failed his English exam in class 10, didn’t go on to college; he took up yoga.

On Wednesday, the tiny village of Bellur in Kolar district of Karnataka, with a population of around 1,000, paid homage to the man who was born here 96 years ago. As news of BKS Iyengar’s death spread in the morning, the village folk assembled in front of the grama panchayat building in tribute.

The Brahmin boy from this dusty village had to move to Bangalore at the age of six for a formal education, as the nearest school was 20km away. This had always rankled Iyengar, who would tell his scores of disciples that all children should have a proper education.

VS Nagesh, principal of Ramamani Sundaraja Iyengar Composite Junior College, told TOI that had BKS passed his SSC examination, he would have gone on to college and maybe opted for a government job. “In that case, yoga would not have reached the rest of the world,” said Nagesh.

BKS had always dreamt of developing Bellur as a global yoga centre, and was working out the modalities, helped by his elder daughter and lone son, who have also taken up yoga.

A frequent visitor to Bellur, he was here last April for the 150th ceremony of his late father and took part in the Anna Santharpane. He spent a couple of weeks at the village, said Govindarajalu, administrator of the trust running his institutions. Former Prime Minister HD Deve Gowda met Iyengar here in May and learnt a few yoga lessons from the master.

His youngest daughter, BJS Savitha Raghu, who lives in Bangalore, said it was her father’s dream to provide a good education and healthcare facilities to children. This led to a primary school in Bellur, started in 1967 in memory of his parents. A high school was started in 2005 for his wife Ramamani, and today, the Bellur Krishnamachar Seshamma Smaraka Nidhi Trust runs the Ramamani Sundaraja Iyengar College.

The Trust has also set up a charitable hospital, taken up renovation of temples and other developmental activities.

BKS leaves behind six children and thousands of disciples across the globe. Family insiders say the deaths of two of his sons-in-law in the span of a year may have affected his health.

source: http://www.timesofindia.indiatimes.com / The Times of India / Home> City> Bangalore / TNN / August 21st, 2014

Mangalore: Searching For History

Sultan Battery
Sultan Battery

Bangalore :

The aircraft  lands on a  narrow piece of land that leads straight to a valley. And that valley was where an ill-fated aircraft had crashed a few years ago.  That is all I could think of during my descent into Mangalore. I held onto to the sides of the chair and hoped that I would live. It was a smooth landing and for once I was grateful for that sharp brake. Once out of the airport, I caught a cab and headed out to the hotel.

But I wasn’t ready for what was coming next. On steep roads, swirling down the hill was  like going down a softie curl. And then my first glimpse of the glimmering city. It looked beautiful.. laid out in front of me like a carpet of twinkling lights. I passed by a group of people – a large family with adults and children. I wondered what they were doing so far from the city at 9.30 pm, and then I saw a  plane in the distance. It made sense. With heads lifted and upturned faces, they watched the flight come closer and got their fix of the day.

And that got me thinking about Mangalore. In my first 30 minutes here, I had moved from extreme fear to delight to warm-fuzziness. It had a small-town quality that  made me wish for more.

Historically Mangalore is grand, Tipu Sultan had been here. It has had an important place in history. But what had happened to it now? Was it just another mid-sized city, now? I didn’t associate it with the grandeur of a big city or a city that had dynasties fighting for it. I associated Mangalore with crime and communal tensions, and that was all I knew about it. But surely Mangalore is much more than that.

The next morning, with just four hours before I made my way to Kasargode, the actual destination of the holiday, plans had to be remade. Maps were scrutinised and the reception lady thoroughly grilled. The plan was  finalised- the day would include Sultan Battery, the College Chapel, the Mangaladevi temple and a stop at Ideal Cafe since everyone was raving about it.

The driver of my car was not from Mangalore. He had no clue where Sultan Battery was.  He tried asking local people who didn’t seem to be very clear either, but were aggravated that  I did not know how to pronounce the word ‘battery.’

Then Google Maps came to the rescue. On the way, Mangalore refused to let me get surly by tempting me with vistas of green spaces and simple but beautiful houses.

Sultan Battery is situated on a bend along a river as it snakes through to the sea. It seemed to have a very strategic position, overlooking both sides of the river. Built by Tipu Sultan, this was a watch-tower to see if anyone was crossing the river and coming over with dark intentions.

Built with black basalt rocks, with viewing holes lining the entire wall, the structure seemed almost too simple in today’s complex understanding of war and defence. But then you put on the perspective of more than 200 years ago, and it seems that the location was indeed perfect for the purpose.

With every dynasty’s uprise, there is growth and also destruction of legacies. Legend has it that the rocks used to build this watchtower could have come from places of worship though no one knows for sure.

There were a few ships next to the river and we decided to go and take a look. It was a ship-building yard. It took them three months of hard work to make just one ship and then she took off, to prove herself worthy of the toil.

I watched the imposing Vajralaxmi enter the water for the first time in awe. Though there were some other ships  too that looked gorgeous. Funnily these ships looked battle weary even though they were all brand new. These were meant to serve as fishing trawlers and were not built to be gleaming and swanky.

I left Sultan Battery and  made my way to the College Chapel. Again, no one knew where it was, and even Google seemed flummoxed this time.

It took me around 20 minutes to find a person  who could give me directions. Important note to self: don’t call a chapel just a ‘chapel’, when it’s called ‘College Chapel’.

I got to go on a lovely personal tour courtesy the person-in-charge. The entire place is painted beautifully, and when I say entire… I mean every inch! What looks like marble at first glance is not, it’s art. What seems like a painting on a curtain and hanging on the wall, is also a painting.  The  illusions go on and on.

It was time for lunch and stomachs were grumbling all around. And so the next destination was Ideal Cafe! The food was okay, nothing exceptional but it was definitely the coolest restaurant in Mangalore and everyone with some time to spare seemed to be there.

The filter coffee that everyone praised was not that great. It had a rough, burnt taste with some of the coffee residue at the base. They say that’s how Turkish coffee tastes, so there might be some who like it.

But if you are someone with a sweet tooth, skip a meal to just have  ice-cream at Ideal Café. It was simply fabulous.

The last stop in Mangalore was the Mangaladevi temple. This is the temple that Mangalore is named after, so it had to be seen. A large temple, it was quiet and peaceful all the more as it was shut for the afternoon. We weren’t allowed inside as the Gods were sleeping and so we were asked not to disturb them.

Mangalore was quaint. A neat and clean city that still seems enveloped in the past and happily so, given the rapidly changing face of every city in the country. I wouldn’t say it surprised me, but it didn’t disappoint. It was small, roads were relatively peaceful and the streets were still lined with houses exuding old-world charm.

source: http://www.newindianexpress.com / The New Indian Express / Home> Cities> Mangalore / by Bhavani Blogs / August 21st, 2014

Treat for Art

Artbf21aug2014

Jaganmohan Palace is one of the Palaces located in Mysore city. The Palace was constructed by Krishnaraja Wadiyar III in 1861 and was the home for the Royal family after the Mysore Palace was burnt down in a fire accident. It has now been converted into an art gallery and a function hall. The Palace is one of the seven Palaces of the Royal City of Mysore and one of the most beautiful contributions of the Wadiyars to the City.

The huge pavilion in front of the Palace was used for holding meetings of the Representative Assembly and the Convocations of the University of Mysore. The installation of Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV took place in this pavilion in 1902 and was attended by Lord Curzon, the then Viceroy and Governor General of India. The Art Gallery houses the prestigious collection of paintings of Raja Ravi Varma, a great artist of Thiruvananthapuram, who had carried out an assignment for Maharaja Krishnaraja Wadiyar IV in 1904.

In 1915, the Palace was converted into an art gallery, which was later renamed in 1955 in the name of Jayachamarajendra Wadiyar, as the Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery. Jayachamarajendra Wadiyar converted the Palace into a trust and opened it for public viewing.

The Palace is built in traditional Hindu style and has three stories. In 1900, an external facade with a hall behind it was added to the Palace. This facade has three entrances and the entablature has religious motifs and miniature temples crafted on it. The walls of the interiors are painted with murals. These mural paintings which follow the traditional style of the Mysore School of painting depict the Dasara scene and the canvas depicting the sequence of the Jumbo Savari stretches across three walls. This mural is the earliest known picture of the Mysore Dasara and has been painted using vegetable dyes. A family tree of the Wadiyars tracing the lineage of the royal family is also painted on a wall. Two wooden displaying Dashavatara, the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu is also present in the Palace.

The art gallery contains one of the largest collection of artefacts in South India. Most of these artefacts are paintings, prominent among which are those by Raja Ravi Varma, some of which demonstrate scenes from the Hindu epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata. The collection of paintings in the gallery exceed 2000 in number and these belong to different Indian styles of painting like Mysore, Mughal and Shantiniketan. 16 paintings of Raja Ravi Varma were donated to the gallery by Jayachamarajendra Wadiyar. Another important painting present here is the ‘Lady with the Lamp’ which was painted by the artist Haldenkar and is placed in a dark room where it is the only exhibit. This is to give an illusion that the glow of the lamp is illuminating the face of the woman. Some other painters whose works are exhibited here include Nikolai Roerich, Svetoslav Roerich and Rabindranath Tagore. Other exhibits here include weapons of war, musical instruments, sculptures, brass-ware, antiques coins and currencies. Some other uni

que artefacts exhibited here is a French Clock which has a mechanism in which a parade by miniature soldiers is displayed every hour; beating drums mark the seconds and a bugle marks the minute. Paintings made on a grain of rice which can be viewed only through a magnifier are also displayed here.

Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery has collection of several Indian artists and Western artists as well. While, the paintings of Raja Ravi Verma is a delight to art connoisseurs there are also few paintings from western artistes which comes a huge surprise for the visitors.

‘Crucifixion’ by P.P. Rubens and miniature paintings by L.Gunov introduces visitors to the western paintings. The art gallery also houses many Mysore Style Paintings that are visual treat to watch.

A new hall was built in 2003 because there was insufficient space available to exhibit all the paintings. The original paintings of Raja Ravi Varma which are over 100 years old were restored by the Regional Conservation Laboratory (RCL). Syrendri, Victory of Meganath and Malabar Lady were some of the paintings of Ravi Varma that were restored. Even the murals on the walls had been damaged because of water seepage and these were also restored by RCL. The auditorium of Jaganmohan Mohan Palace is also used by organisations for the conducting cultural programmes.

The Jaganmohan Palace is being maintained by Sri Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery Trust which has been working continuously to maintaining the building as well as the artefacts. —VNS

source: http://www.starofmysore.com / Star of Mysore / Home> General News / August 16th, 2014